These are the final images which I used for my Photo Story Final Assignment, I have included the unedited versions and the showed the final images and how I edited them to suit the story more and to also give a better finish to the photographs and show some of the techniques I learnt throughout the Graphics Module.


1. For the first image and throughout my story line, I wanted to stick with the Black and white them because I believe this relates a lot to austere behaviour. I therefore changed the image to Greyscale and also used the ‘Black and White’ tool to use maximum white in the image as I wanted to start my images of whiter and gradually get darker. I also cropped the image so that it just focused on the main sector.

2. For this image, I also used greyscale and ‘black and white’ to lighten the image to a lighter shade of this. I also used the rotate tool so that the picture turned the right way around.

3. For this image, I used greyscale, the ‘black and white’ tool to make the image lighter but gradually getting darker and also the rotate tool.

4. For this image I used greyscale and also the ‘black and white’ tool for enhancement.

5. For this image I used greyscale, I also used the ‘black and white’ tool but instead of using the maximum white choice I used the ‘maximum black’, this is because it is a darker point in her life and it is starting to become more unhappy.

6. For this image I used greyscale and also ‘Black and White’, I again chose the maximum black option.

7. I used greyscale and maximum black on the ‘black and white’ tool.

8. I used greyscale and also ‘maximum black’ in black and white, I kept making the image darker until it was darker than the previous photograph to show things progressing to the worst.

9. For this image I used greyscale but instead of using the ‘black and white’ tool, I decided to use the Brightness/Contrast sliders to create a better effect. This was able to make the image look darker and stop it from becoming to pixelated and overworked. 

10. For my final image, I used the crop tool to focus on the most important part of the image and I also converted it to greyscale and used the Brightness/Contrast sliders to make the image as dark as it could possibly go to show the end of the austere moment and the photo story.


Digital Photo Workflow
1. Digital Capture – 2. Download photos to computer – 3. Organize photos (create groups/keywords) choose selects – 4. Raw conversion of selects from an edit (to JPEG etc.) – 5. Digital retouching (Photoshop) – 6. Output (printer/client) – 7. Archive (light-room/aperture)

Use a calibration printout to see how the printout and the computer differ in brightness/dullness.

Calibrating the Screen on a iMac
1. Choose the apple button – 2. Choose system preferences – 3. Choose Displays – 4. Choose the color option and press ‘Calibrate’ – 5. Follow the steps making sure the apple becomes almost invisible to make a new profile.

Colour Output – Gamut

Photoshop –
Edit – Color Settings – Settings: European General Purpose/Prepress (newspaper)/Web or Internet (online) – RGB: Adobe – CMYK: (ask printer staff) – Click ‘more options’ – CMYK: European coated (clay based/non spread) or uncoated (print-over) – Gray: Dot Gain 10% – Spot: Dot Gain 10% – Colour Management Policies – RGB: Convert to Working RGB.

View – Proof Setup
View – Proof Colours – see how it would look like as CMYK from RGB

Files Online
Printing in RGB
Printing with Preview
Producing via Printers
Colour Management
Checking Colour Proof
Soft Proofing
Guidelines for Choosing Colours

How to Calibrate the screen

As I am using a PC I will have to bring up my control panel, this brings up this dialogue:

This then brings up a way to calibrate my screen and I follow all the steps until the calibration is at its best:

When all these steps are completed and your screen becomes easier to view, this is because the calibration was more successful and you have achieved a more viewable screen.

I am going to look at methods withing RGB, these tend to completely change the appearance of the image with the techniques involved. I am using a shot which I took on holiday, this being an image of the street which leads down onto the beach, I want to try and change the image to make it look as though it has been shot just before nightfall,

To do this I set the image to RGB because I am going to look at the different channels within the image, these being most importantly Red, Green and Blue. This is the image I am using:

I then chose ‘Image > Mode > RGB colour’ I then opened my channel mixer so that each of the individual colours and their sliders were brought up to alter with…

I then need to focus on the output channel, this allows me to alter each of the colours by themselves instead of just diving straight into editing the whole image. I firstly started looking at the Red Channel and changed the values around until I got the perfect settings. The image needs to be as close to 100% as possible so it doesn’t show too much contrast, here I set the values to, red = +124%, green = +12% and blue = -34%. The contrast should also be moved down to +2.

I then chose the Green Channel, the settings should be, red = -2%, green = +102% and blue = 0%. The contrast should also be 0.

Finally I chose the Blue Channel, the settings should be, red = -6%, green = -6% and blue = 100% and the contrast should be -2.

This gives off an amazing golden tint to your image and makes it automatically look like it had been taking at a different part of the day, here is a comparison between the original and edited:

There are a lot of different ways in how to make an image black and white and this doesn’t just mean a one click job, although you can just use the ‘black and white’ tool as well as ‘greyscale’, this might not get the best out of your image, so I tried some techniques which give the image an overall better look, I used this image which I took myself for one of the Fashion assignments in Photo Story:

There are four different ways to change the image to black and white, these are greyscale, desaturate, lab desaturate and finally lab colour. Each of these do the same thing but make a small and different effect on the final outcome of the image.

Firstly I started to look and greyscale as this is the easiest procedure out of them all to do, all that is needed to do is ‘Image > Mode > Greyscale’. The image turned out like this:

I then wanted to desaturate the image, this is also a simple process, to do this I used ‘Image > Adjustments > Desaturate.’ The image turned out like this:

The next image alteration also uses the desaturate tool but also entails me to change the colour and also desaturate the image instead of just creating one step. I changed the image to lab colour mode and then used ‘Image > Adjustments > Desaturate.’ This image looks very similar to the one beforehand, but in fact when printed it makes a huge difference, this is because the image is more paper friendly and would make a better print for a newspaper or magazine:

I therefore saved the most detailed until last, this involves working with the lab colour and giving the best results of a black and white image. I first converted the colour to lab colour, this doing ‘Image > Mode > Lab Colour’…

I then needed to choose the ‘Channels’ tab on the side panel and then click on ‘Lightness’. I then selected ‘Image > Mode > Greyscale’ with the Lightness tab highlighted.

When the image is changed back to greyscale, I held the Command button on the MAC and click on the grey tab in the channels area. This creates a selection on the image, I then use the ‘Select > Inverse’ to reverse the selection and this selects everything which was not selected beforehand:

Whilst having this selected I need to create a new solid black fill layer, I do this by doing ‘Layer > New Fill Layer > Solid Colour > Black’.

After doing this, the image is normally perceived at a very dark level so therefore I want to try and make it look less dark and not as black so that the image is better viewed. I can therefore use the opacity slider to allow more light into the image and to stop it from looking so glum…

My final image from working with this technique turned out looking like this:

This is the main techniques to achieve a black and white photograph, all of these give great effect and can all be used easily when gotten used to, here I am going to show you the differences between each of the techniques I used above in smaller form…

Original – Greyscale – Desaturate – Lab Desaturate – Layers/Channels

Reducing Image Noise

Noise is unwated pixels that is seen in a picture where for example, a picture is taken in a dark area with a long shutter speed, it can also happen when taken on a lower priced camera. I therefore decided to use this photograph from my Event Assignment which shows a dark picture taken on my not as high end camera. Here is the photograph I am going to use:

The noise created in this picture is mostly luminance noise, this is also known as greyscale noise and shows patchiness and grains within the image. Noise can be seen more in one colour of the image, and is mostly seen in the blue parts. It is best to check each part seperately to see which are causing the most problems. To do this I chose, ‘Filters > Noise > Reduce Noise’, this then brought up the box to give me advanced settings and check each of the colours individually.

Between each of the colours I balanced out the strength of the luminance and also the preserve details because if worked with too much, luminance will still come through and there will be too much focus on little things such as hair. I used the advanced settings to change the settings of each colour seperately as Green and Blue needed editing. I then edited the Sharpen Details and removed JPEG artifacts to give an overall better final image.

Here is the final image, you can’t tell a lot on what I have changed, but I think the edges look a lot more sharpened and the image looks a bit better quality:

Improving Shadows and Highlights

The shadow/highlight tool can correct photo’s with silhouetted images due to strong backlighting or correcting subjects which have been washed out due to being too close to the camera flash. The tool lightens or darkens based on surrounding pixels and for this reason there are seperate controls to try and achieve the best outcome.

I chose the same image again basically because of the light and dark contrast and to see how the tool would effect this. First I chose the option ‘Image > Adjustments > Shadow/Highlight’ this enabled me to use certain settings and also to see a preview before I settled on the editing.

If I was to make each of the Shadow and Highlight percentages up to 100% each, it gives a lot of light all over the photograph and it makes it look a bit too overexposed, here is an example of this:

However if I went the other way and made the Shadow and Highlight scales all the way to 0%, it makes the image very dark and doesn’t really highlight any of the colours which need to be more visible. Here is an example of this:

I therefore need to find the right balance between the two to get an overall better finish to my photograph. To do this, I can click on ‘Show More Options’ at the bottom of the page to bring up more ways in which I can edit the image. I then edited the different parts of the image, focusing on the amount of correction to make, tone, radius, contrast and of course the shadow and highlights by using this larger box:

After doing this, I was then able to come up with a final image which was more vibrant than the original. I tweaked a lot of the different parts of the image to finally come up with this one which manages to let a lot more light in and also highlights the main parts of the image, this being the people on stage and also the background screen…

I am going to use a photograph from the portrait task again from my Photo Story assignments. I decided to use this image because it is a close up on the face and shows a lot of skin where I could improve the image. Here is the image:

Firstly, I believe that there is too much red in the image, so therefore I want to try and get rid of this, I choose ‘Image > Adjustments > Levels’ and then choose under RGB the Blue Level, this therefore allows me to change the input levels, I changed the middle value to 0.90 instead of 1.00 and this gets rid of a lot of the red tones. I then choose the Hue/Saturation tool to change the Red Level and change the saturation slider to -7. Here is an example of me doing this…

After editing the photograph and reducing the red, this is the finished product…

Another way to edit the image or ‘the fancy way’ as a lot of people call it is to go to ‘Image > Mode > CMYK Colour’ then, choose ‘Image > Adjustments > Curves.’ I then changed the Yellow, Magenta and Cyan colours to 30%, 24% and 8%, this is because these are the most common colours to nearer a normal skin tone and would take the red out of the skin. This is the result that came from this:

Colour Correction using Hue/Saturation

Another way to make the skin tone look pleasing is by using Hue/Saturation, this gets rid of blemishes and makes the skin look in more perfect condition. Firstly I select a new Adjustment Layer from the Layers menu and choose ‘Hue/Saturation Layer’. Here is an example:

I then followed the instructions in the tutorial for getting rid of red spots and also this treatment for blemishes, I believed none of them worked the way that I wanted it to and as I tried to adjust the colours, the redness just didn’t seem to disappear, so instead of showing you the finished product (as I didn’t really come to one, here is an example of how it could go very wrong):